D ue to religious reasons, the breeding of rabbits began in France as early as 600 a.c. Since then, the phenomen has spread through out the whole of Europe. While the focus was concentrated on the practical exchange of the rabbit during the dark ages, such as its meat, in the early days, and later, also its fur, focus has moved to its value as a pet, during later centuries, although breeding of certain breeds for its fur, still is common. Due to these reasons, the domestic rabbit has won a greater geographical distribution, than the wild rabbit. All rabbits are descended from the european wild rabbit (Oryctolagus (Le´pus) cuni´culus). The historical cradle of the rabbit is to be found in the Pyreneés.The rabbit migrated as a wild animal to England in the eleventh century, and to North America around the nineteenth century. In 1859 the rabbit was inplanted in the Australian continent, where it since then has made a name for itself as a first-rate noxious animal.

T he Angora has a very long, bushy fur, which, although it is softer, can be used as some sort of analogy to the wool of the sheep. It is appreciated for this reason, but also as a pet. It has also been used in sport contexts. The White country rabbit is another breed. Its fur is smooth and fine, and well suited for colouring. It is a common breed, whose meat previously has been greatly appreciated. The Havana has a light brown, fine fur. The swedish fur rabbit is a breed, in whose black fur, light shining elements can be seen. It is robust and easy to take care of. The Ermine is the smallest breed with its 2 to 4 pounds. It is nearly completely out of pigmentation, with its white fur and red eyes. The Flemish Giant is characteristic of its grey, thick fur, long ears, and its size. As a rule, it weighs between 12 to 16 pounds, and is bred mostly because of its fur, but also for its meat. The Beveren weighs between 7 and 12 pounds, and it is appreciated for its thick, lavendel blue fur. The Chinchilla is also bred to carry a first-rate fur, reminiscent of the Chinchilla.

R abbit breeds that are suitable for children are the Ermine, the Polish, the Mini Rex, the Dwarf Lop, and the Dutch rabbit. The two latter breeds are particularly safe bets.

T he basic food for domestic rabbits is usually made of pellet blends, in which corn, grain and peas may be included. Ready packed feeding stuff is usually more nutritiously complete, than bulked feeding stuff. It is important that the feeding stuff is consumed before the end date on the package has passed. The dry feeding stuff must be available to the rabbit precisely in dry condition. Protect it against rain and water drops. The pellets must be complemented with fresh vegetables, and also washed grass, free of pollution from dogs or men, and preferably hay of good quality, as it prevents stomach problems, in order to make a domestic rabbit feel well. The rabbit should have a mineral stone available, as well, to cut their teeth against it, by biting. The rabbits fluid needs should be provided through a water machine. Make sure that the rabbit can use the water machine, and that water always is refilled.

R abbits should be lifted with a support as wide as possible, below the chest and backside. The hand and the arm that supports the chest is moved in from the inside, with the hand coming out between you and the rabbit.. The other hand, and arm, should grasp around the backside, including the shanks, from the outside. You may never fall with, let go of, or drop a rabbit, while lifting it, since doing so easily can cause its death. Those conditions are well worth to make a note of, since the rabbit has sharp claws and teeth. A rabbit that is lifted, and doesn´t have support for the hind legs, during the lift, gets easily frightened, and begins to kick, in which way it becomes very difficult to hold. Rabbits are very sensitive to falling. It may not take more than a fall off a sofa, or the like, to hurt them badly, eventually causing a deadly outcome. Below follows a list on things of special importance in the care taking of rabbits.

1. Rabbits may not lie in sofas , on chairs or on tables. They may not walk in stairs, either. They must be protected from falling.
2. The placing of the rabbits cage is important. The temperature must be even and just right. Electric heaters or direct sun light may hurt it. Draught, noise and beasts of prey can stress the rabbit, as well.
3. Do mind that dogs, as well as cats, wants to attack rabbits by their nature.
4. Rabbits gnaws away at everything that comes in their way, including cables, carpet edges and furniture, if they are let loose in a room.
5. Make sure to protect your rabbit against poisonous indoor plants (the overwhelming majority), cactuses, and poisonous outdoor vegetation. Plants like buttercup, lilac, and onion plants is included in the latter category. This goes for all plants that are known for their poisonousness, of course.
6. Rabbits may never be fed with mouldy feeding stuff.
7. Be careful with the changing of food. If you have to change feeding stuff, do it gradually by mixing the feeding stuff more and more with a new kind of feeding stuff, day by day. Never combine the changing of food with the changing of environment. This is especially important in the change of owner.
8. All rabbits benefit from a certain degree of fur care. The longer the fur, the greater the need is. Daily fur care is necessary for all rabbits with a long fur. All of the fur must be taken care of, as must the fur on the belly.
9. Protect your rabbit from strong chemicals. Washing the dishes with detergent must be followed by careful rinsing.
10. Keep the rabbit´s cage clean and dry. This is necessary to prevent that the rabbit consumes unsuitable things, and to guarantee the skin health of the rabbit. A dirty cage attracts insects, as well , whose maggots may attack the rabbit.
11. Try to make sure that the ears of the rabbit doesn´t get to germinated, for example on a weekly basis. Never pick towards cross section of the ear, since doing so can result in damage.

A s an owner of a female rabbit you can make sure whether she is pregnant by carefully searching if there are swellings of the size of about one centimetre on both sides of her belly, with your fingers. Before touching is possible, the foetus must have had the chance to develope during a few weeks. A pregnant doe needs to be put in a separate cage, where she has peace and quiet. Disturbances may cause spontaneous abortion. After yet another week, the females teats begin to thicken. The female gives birth approximately one month after conception. The little ones are bare and completely helpless without developed senses. As an owner of a rabbit that has recently become a mother, one has to avoid messing about in the nest, so that the mother notices. By way of exception, you can, after distracting the doe with food, carefully poke around with a odour neutral pencil, which previously has been stroked against the doe, and rubbed with material from the nest. If one is uncareful, this may result in that the mother abandons, or perhaps even attack the little ones. In a batch of few little ones may these, in exceptional cases, become the subject of unprovoced cannibalism from the mother.

   Kåre Andersson